PuDong at the HuangPu River at Night
People often ask me what life is like in China. On a national scale, I can't answer this and it would be too generically stereotypical to be fair or accurate. But what I can do is describe our typical day in Shanghai when we go to visit - which we just returned from one.
The Kitchen with the Instant Water HeaterWhere we stay has an instant water heater (no tank), the kind you see more of now in the US. These are quite common in Shanghai where space is a premium, and it mounts on the wall. Ours is in the kitchen. Before, it used LP Gas and was quite finicky: it would overheat easily and shut down, sending you from scalding hot to icy cold showers regularly. Now it has been switched to Natural Gas and its very reliable. The only thing stopping me now from getting one here is the price - they're just too expensive here in the US compared to traditional tank water heaters (I think).
Electricity and water is at a premium in Shanghai, so conservation is key. I could not find a single regular incandescent bulb at the local stores anywhere - they were all Compact Florescence. And washing machines are much smaller with most being front loaders for further water conservation. No electric or gas dryers that I could find - you hang your cloths out to dry instead.
Our View in the Morning (but not early enough for Tai Chi)Early in the morning, you could see people practicing Tai-Chi in the Shanghai Outdoor Stadium parking lot or in the parks. I never did get up early enough to join them - maybe next trip.
Noodle Soup, Steamed Bread, Fried Noodles and Won-ton Soup
When it comes to breakfast, traditionally this is a noodle or won-ton soup and perhaps a bowl of hot soy milk. Boy, I miss those soups, and I have really grown to like soy milk. There are a couple of little restaurants nearby that served the best noodle soup and sweet hot soy milk. Yum...you just can't find that here.
One family owned place we would frequent for breakfast and lunch
There are 7 ways to get around in Shanghai. They all have their pluses and minuses:
- Walking
Cheapest and easiest. Most everything is within walking distance and if its too big to carry (toaster oven or larger) delivery is almost always free. - Bicycle
Cheap and fast. People ride these everywhere: streets, sidewalks. Stop lights, stop signs, walkways do not apply - just ring your little bell and keep going. And there are actually parking spaces for bicycles and mopeds. - Mopeds/Scooters
Still pretty cheap (I'll blog about this latter), and just like bicycles, people ride them in the streets, sidewalks, everywhere. Traffic laws don't seem to apply - honk your horn and go on. I did see one girl ride over a guy's foot. They spent a long time arguing over who was at fault. [actually, the guy was staring at me (being a blond headed foreigner with a lovely local wife) and the girl was looking at something else - so neither one was paying much attention] - Buses
One fare fits all. One block or a complete ride around Shanghai is just ¥2 (about $0.35). If you are retired, its free during off-peak times. If your not in a hurry and its too far to walk, this is your best bet. You don't have to worry about the traffic - let the driver do that. And you can people-watch all you want. - Subway
These are just wonderful in Shanghai. Fast, quiet, cheap, clean, cool, and fun. You are charged buy the length of the trip (about ¥2 to ¥5). But I guess you could just get on, ride around a while, return to your starting point and only get charged the minimum fee. Anywhere you want to go in Shanghai is within just a few blocks of a subway station. And if its cold, hot or rainy outside, just head down into a station and do your shopping there. Some stations exits are even inside shopping malls and grocery stores. So, conceivably, you could do all your shopping without have to step back outside. - Taxi
If you need to get from point A to point B and don't have time to wait for a buss or run to a subway station, this is the right choice for you. Its more expensive with the minimum fare being ¥12 ($2). But it still a far cry better than owning a car. - Car
Are you insane? Are you just filthy rich (sales tax on cars is high and licenses are almost as much as the car itself) or a Corporate/Government VIP? Do you like driving in bumper to bumper traffic everywhere inches from certain death (at a mind numbing 20kph) only to find that there is absolutely no where to park once you get there? These are driven and parked just about everywhere as well: streets, sidewalks, alleys, etc. Walk, its better for your physical and mental health...really.
Shanghai's 431kph (256mph) MagLev Train [who's that lovely woman?]I'll talk about Trains in another post...its time to go shopping now.
Aside from cars and property (land, apartments, houses, etc), there is no sales tax in China and no yearly reoccurring personal property taxes like here. The price on the item is the price you pay. If its a large store, or government owned, there is little, if any, wiggle room on the price. But if its a small family owned store, bargaining becomes an art form. If you are a foreigner, you will almost always pay too much. The thought there is that if you make more, you should pay more. So I usually let my wife go in and bargain while I go elsewhere out of sight.
Century Mart...hmmmm....sounds like another company I know...
Century Mart is located at the base of Shanghai Outdoor Stadium just around back and just the other side of the street where we stay. They have
everything! Mopeds/Motor-scooters (electric), computers, cell phones, clothing, housewares, food, liquor - everything. It's our favorite store. There are checkout lanes just like a Wal-Mart/Target, but some things, like DVDs, that you need to pay for in that department. I found this out the hard way when I bought the Chinese version of "Avatar" by myself. I was chased down by one poor lady trying to get my attention as I was walking away with the DVD (my Chinese needs more work). You can also get some traditional Chinese medicinal cures like deer antlers and penises (not sure what that's for and not sure I want to know), and
caterpillar fungus - which is very expensive. I found the really big difference in Shanghai department stores and here is that there are lost of employees in every department all wanting to help you find what you are looking for - almost to the point of it being a competition between people trying to sell you one version of an item over another (and they don't work on commission).
If you live in an older section of town, the food often comes to you. Food Peddlers (literally) on bicycles ride through the streets and alleys selling their produce.Shopping in Shanghai ranges from the ridiculously expensive to the ridiculously cheap. There very well know street, named Hau Hai Lu, that has all your most 'elite' European stores: Louis Vuitton, Rolex, Porch, Ferrari, etc.
One of the thousands of little clothing stores at Cheap-A-LuAnd there is the street called 'Cheap-A-Lu' (its not spelled that way, but it might as well be). Imagine a four story building the size of a city block, each floor crammed with dozens of 10x10 ft shops each, in turn, crammed with clothing. Now multiply that times four! You have thousands of shops, most all of which are personally owned. It is a mind numbing, overwhelming experience. This is where your bargaining skills are put to the test. Take the price they offer and cut it by a fifth or even a tenth and work up very slowly from there. If your a foreigner, you'll still pay too much, but if you are a native, you have a chance of getting a great price. Your best tactic is to fain disinterest and walk away. If you not asking too little, they will call you back, or even follow you...continuing to bargain. If they don't, find another shop that will and try again. It can be quite fun, but it will also wear you out fast.
Old Town at Night [Expo Advertising was Everywhere!]This was the first trip where I saw street cleaning machines, just like we have here. Usually (and still done), there are individuals in blue overalls, caps and masks constantly patrolling the streets with wheelbarrows and makeshift brooms, sweeping up the trash and cleaning out the bins. As a result, there streets are always very clean. With the Shanghai Expo this year (another post), it was even cleaner.
Clean, Bright and Beautiful!The air was much cleaner this time as well, an improvement that I hope continues. This was due in part to the Shanghai Expo, but also due to a change in moped policy. Only electric mope-heads are sold now. Gasoline and LP Gas have been outlawed. So as old ones wear out, they are being replaced with these cleaner electric ones. As the gas and LP were most often two-stroke engines, they were quite dirty. I estimate that around 1 in 10 are now electric, up from 0 just a few years ago. And as mopeds outnumber cars, this was causing a lot of pollution. And they are so much quieter. This really helps out with the noise levels.
The Web of Construction!Construction techniques are different as well. Building are often encased in a bamboo or steel frames covered in a green mesh material that is reminiscent of a cocoon. This travels up and down with the construction and allows the workers to walk around the outside without the risk of falling to dropping tools onto the street below.
Tap water is generally considered non-potable (not drinkable), but I have seen a number of workers drink directly from garden hoses (they must have strong stomachs). As a result, most houses have water coolers like you see on TV office dramas. When you run out of water, just call the distributor and within minutes, at all times of day or night, someone on a bicycle will arrive with a new 5 gallon drum. This was the only thing I have seen in China that still uses the Imperial system. Everything else is Metric.
Typical Hospital in ShanghaiHeath Care is different as well. Its pretty much universal in China, although I believe there are still rural areas yet untouched. As for Shanghai, with the exception of specialty practices like acupuncture/acupressure, massage, etc., there are no Doctors Offices. If you are sick, or need a check up, you go to the hospital. There are specialty hospitals as they have here: Cancer, Maternity, Children's, etc., but the routine goes something like this:
Go to the main check-in desk at the hospital and explain what you are there for. Receive a ticket and directions as to which floor and section to go to. When you get there you check in at their desk and take a seat in the lobby (much like a Boarding Terminal at an Airport). They call your name and number and flash it on a large display. You have 30 seconds to respond or you lose your turn. The nurse takes you to a room where a doctor examines you. When done, you are given a bill and possibly a prescription. You take the bill to the payment window along with your insurance and pay a very small fraction of the total. If there is a prescription, you take that to another window and pick up and pay for it - again at a very small fraction of the total.
I don't know the routines for Emergencies or General Surgeries, but that's pretty much what its like for general problems. There's no making appointments with your Dr weeks in advance or running to the Emergency Room with a Cold or the Flu. But there is also no personal physician either. I figure it this way: I only see my personal physician once a year and they only remember me by the notes in their folder, so it just about like meeting them for the first time each time anyway. As a whole, it seems to to work, and with 20million people in Shanghai alone, I don't see it working better any other way.
Old-Town shopping district during the Lantern Festival
Holidays are also treated differently in China. Chinese New Year is a 15 day long celebration ending in the Lantern Festival. Major businesses close and many retail shops shut down. Independence Day and Moon Holiday are 7 day long events as well. And because many of the smaller retain shops are run by people from outside the city, there is a mass exodus by train as people return to their towns and homes for the holidays. Parts of the city then resemble ghost towns.
At the end of the day, there is sleep. But the beds are hard. I think this is the norm. I also think this is where Star Trek got its inspiration for Klingon beds. Its supposed to be better for your back and circulation. I'm not sure. but after a full day, it really doesn't matter. I'm out like a light and 'Sleep like a Pig' (Chinese saying) anyway.
Our View at NightSo, "Good Night and Good Luck".